Description
From Baie-Comeau to Blanc-Sablon, QC-389 and the Trans-Labrador Highway is 1500km (900 miles) of mostly coarse gravel with some sections of pavement. Driving at night is not recommended.
The Trans-Labrador Highway is truly the greatest North American road project of the era - to open up the most remote part of the continent, just as far north as JBR. The last gap in Central Labrador will be completed in 2008, meanwhile it is still bridged by a single ferry that reminds us of what used to be the only way to get around coastal Labrador until just a couple years ago. Starting from Baie-Comeau, QC-138 is paved for 200 kms to the Manic V dam, where it then alternates between asphalt and gravel for the 300kms to Labrador City, just inside the Labrador border. After Labrador City, the 900km TLH is entirely gravel until the last 85km, on the Labrador Straits. Terrain is mostly boreal spruce forest, similar to JBR, but also some low mountains in western Labrador and the South Coast. Rivers and rapids are crossed often. Like the Trans-Taiga, this route is as remote as any in Alaska, maybe more so. Some of these South Coast villages didn't have fresh fruit regularly until 2003/4 when the TLH arrived!
A single 13-hr overnight ferry trip is required between Goose Bay and Cartwright. Cost is C$215 including car, 2 passengers and a sleeping cabin.
Getting There
The western end of the Trans-Labrador route is at Baie-Comeau, QC. Baie-Comeau can be reached via Quebec City and the first third of the North Shore Route, or via the ferry from Matane on the South Shore. The eastern end of the route is at Blanc-Sablon, QC, on the border with Labrador. Blanc-Sablon can be reached via the St. Barbe ferry from Newfoundland on the Viking Trail, or via the Nordik Express ferry which travels the North Shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence from Natasquan/Sept Iles.
Alternatives / Spurs
No alternatives really, except to take a completely different route such as the North Shore or Viking Trail.
The St. Lewis spur on the South Coast can be used to drive on the easternmost mainland road in North America, to virtually the easternmost mainland point.
The Esker spur in Central Labrador, a low-grade gravel road, can be used to drive almost as far north as the end of the Trans-Taiga.
To shorten the trip, turn around Goose Bay instead of taking the ferry. This is also the extent of the route in winter when the ferry isn't running.
Sights / Attractions
Manic V dam on QC-389, iron ore mines and ski hills in Labrador City, dam at Churchill Falls, future Mealy Mountains National Park, Goose Bay - Cartwright overnight ferry. The Wonderstrand (longest saltwater beach, but uninhabited), Battle Harbour Historic District (old-fashioned cod-drying offshore fishing village), Red Bay Historic Site (15th century Basque whaling station). This is the best area to see giant icebergs, from land and by hiring a boat, in May and June. Greenland whales visit the South Coast in the summer months.
Outfitters and charter planes are likely available in Fremont and Lab City. Goose Bay is unclear (big airport, but on a NATO base).
Claims to Fame
One of the most remote roads in North America, it is also one of the newest, with Phase II opening in late 2003 / early 2004. Similar to JRB, it nearly reaches the 54th parallel, further with the Esker spur. The 30km spur to St. Lewis is the easternmost road on the North American mainland. Less than 1000 cars typically do the entire trip each year. The TLH is the northernmost public road in Eastern North America, at Cartwright.
Estimates
Typically 4 days driving one way from NYC (34 hours driving). Likely overnights are Montreal (border area), Baie-Comeau, Labrador City, Goose Bay/Cartwright ferry. The route is intended to be one-way, used in conjunction with the Viking Trail or the North Shore Ferry to form a loop. Allow an extra day for more sight-seeing.
Open most of the year, the TLH has closed just past Red Bay the last 2 years in March when the snowdrifts reached up to 40 feet in height, until thaw in late April. The Goose Bay - Cartwright ferry doesn't operate during freeze up, typically Mid-November to some time in late April. During this period, the trip would have to turn around at Goose Bay or Cartwright. The ferry also doesn't operate every day. It leaves Goose Bay on Sunday and Tuesday evenings, and Cartwright on Saturday and Monday evenings. For example, to catch the ferry in Goose Bay on a Sunday, leave NYC for Montreal on Thursday afternoon.
The ideal travel time is May and June, when the road and ferries are open, the icebergs are present, but before the black flies are out.
Travelling just the portion to Goose Bay is ideal just about any time of year, although spring thaw in April is said to be a little rough.
Links
Honeymoon Travelogue (South Coast only)
Goose Bay-Cartwright
ferry info
Wikipedia entry for Trans-Labrador Highway
South Coast Slow Clearing (awesome photos!)
Detailed Road Description
to Churchill Falls